Preparing for that first ride
As I write this, spring is in the air. Although the nights are still 5 to 10 below zero in our neck of the woods, it gets up to a balmy 3 degrees above during the day. With the current price of gas, 3 degrees sounds more like riding weather all the time. Every time I fill up my truck, I as the attendant if I need a co-signer on the payment. So, I figured that it was high time I lifted the snow shovels off my bike and get her ready for another season of abuse. Who knows, maybe I can help shed some light on the basics of preparing your bike for the season.
When I was a kid, I often questioned my Mom as to her motives on some
topic and she would respond ÒDo as I sayÉ not as I do.Ó Mechanics sometimes fall into this
behavioural trait as well, at first glance; you may think auto mechanics must
take such good care of their cars.
In my experience I have learned the awful truth. Due to their elevated knowledge of exactly
how everything about the vehicle works, they can bring it oh so much closer to
the brink of death and keep it there for month after month. They know exactly what they can get
away with and what really truly needs attention. Most people hear a new noise and head off to the dealer
right away, a good mechanic will hear it and say Ò HmmmÉ worse when itÕs cold,
must be a little piston slap, better go with a heavier oil and sell it before
next winter.Ó LetÕs rise above
this ability and give our bikes the love they so rightly deserve after a long
cold winter.
Before we put our collective trusty steed away in the fall, I know we
all filled the tanks up to the brim with fuel, to limit the condensation that
ÔbreathesÕ in and out every time the shed warms and cools. We then put in a good fuel stabilizer,
mixed it up a bit and ran it until it was through the carbs or injection
system. For good measure we then
drained the float bowls if our bike has carbs. We changed the oil.
I know we all removed the battery and put it in the basement or garage
and threw it on the charger once a month (in a well ventilated area of
course). I know we all put it up
on its centre stand or tried to get the wheels off the ground somehow. Otherwise the cold ground and months of
500 lbs. sitting in one spot will put flat spots on the tires. After finding an airbox full of dog
kibble years ago, I now plug the pipe and the airbox inlets as well to keep out
the mice. Some people tell me their
winter maintenance schedule is as follows ÒI just fire her up once a month to
make sure she still runsÓ. Have
you ever noticed in the winter in traffic that some vehicles will drip water
and puff the white condensation from the exhaust pipe? Until the engine, exhaust gases and
exhaust system get truly hot; they donÕt burn off this condensation from a cold
start. So firing your bike up for
a minute or two, or even five does way more harm than good. Not only is it needless polluting, but
this brief heat cycle fills the pipe, catalytic converter, and muffler packing
up with water just in time for you to shut it off and walk away for a
month. So avoid the temptation to
disturb her sleep, leave her until spring. Another ounce of prevention is to spray the chain, engine
and all moving control parts (other than the brake rotors) with a good clean
lubricant that displaces moisture and prevents corrosion. Another good idea is to clean and wax
the bodywork. Try not to cover the
bike with anything like a tarp that wont breathe, especially if the floor gets
wet during the early spring thaws.
Now the springÉ Go ahead and reinstall the battery, wiping off the
terminals and making sure they are clean.
Clean the bodywork again and wipe away any excess or over spray from the
lubricant you sprayed on in the fall.
Wipe the pipes off well or your spray will burn off, causing some
aromatic concerns. Lube your
cables and the pivots for your levers and pedals. If you were diligent and drained the carbs, did you close
the float bowl drain screws?
Spraying contact cleaner on a rag and wiping off the brake rotors is a
good idea as the rear rotor can often get coated from misdirected chain
lube. While you are right there,
peek in at the brake pads. Is the
wear on all the pads the same? If
not, a piston might be sticking or the caliper bracket might be seizing if it
is not an apposed piston design (this is more common in a car, but can happen
on older bikes too). Check your
brake fluid level, low level is rarely due to a leak, but almost always due to
worn out pads. The calipers are
typically just held on by two bolts.
If you suspect that the pads may need closer inspection or measuring,
remove the calipers and measure the remaining brake pad material. All service manuals should give you a
minimum thickness for this remaining brake pad material. If you are not comfortable with working
on your brakes, please take it to a reputable dealer for their inspection. If you can get the front wheel off the
ground, hold the bottom of the forks and gently pull the forks toward you, then
try and move the wheel for and aft in between the forks. If you can feel any play or hear a
clunk, find it! Excessive play may
be found in the steering head, fork bushings, or wheel bearings, none are
tolerable. If you can get the back
of the bike off the ground, do the same with the rear wheel. Lift it straight up, paying attention
to the amount of play you notice.
There may often be some, as there are top and bottom shock mounts and
two, three or more suspension linkage bearings that all might have a tiny bit
of clearance. But any excessive
movement must be investigated.
Spin the tires slowly, roughness may indicate some rusty bearings, if
the rotors drag, release, drag and release, they may be warped out of
tolerance. Any entry-level amateur
racer will have their shock and forks serviced every season, pros far more
often. On the street, annually
would be great, but every two years would be an acceptable maximum. Not only does the oil get dirty from
parts wearing and dirt ingested by the seals, but the oil viscosity will fall
off over time, leaving your damping rates diminished. I have even seen rust attack steel parts inside the fork
above the oil line over the winter.
Check your coolant and oil levels.
Lastly check your tires for tread depth, ensure the sidewalls arenÕt cracked
and check the pressures before that first ride. Also remember that just because you and your bike are ready,
the road will still be dirty from the winter sand and salt, and the car drivers
arenÕt watching for us yet eitherÉ give them time and be safe!